The Challenge Of Rescuing An Older Injured Citron Cockatoo

Citron-crested Cockatoo - Jurong Bird Park, Singapore Author Doug Janson
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Goffins have a similar diet to CAGS (Congo African Greys).

 

A good commercial bird food like Hagen Tropimix large parrot is a fine food containing nuts, fruits, hull-less seeds and Tropican Pellets.

 

Learning what your bird likes in terms of fresh food may take some experimentation which usually pays off.

 

It took us about a month for us to learn that Peaches our Senegal likes a mixture of green beans, carrots and peas served warm for breakfast.

 

Our four six budgies and Peaches enjoy lettuce, preferably romaine but we’ve upped the veggie game with fresh cucumber slices.

 

I hang romaine lettuce in the budgies cage and many times I will cover Peaches main food bowl with a large leaf of romaine lettuce.

 

 

As for bird toys it’s not so much a specific toy but having enough toys to challenge your cockatoos brain, beak and feet.

 

Toys go hand-in-hand with food.

 

The activity of foraging is associated with searching for food in the wild.

 

Birds will seek seeds in the grass. Berries, bugs and nuts in the trees and whatever they can find in the bark.

Some birds will actually scratch the ground and look under rocks for other food sources.

 

Your new bird is exhibiting brooding behavior and has clearly bonded with you quite quickly.

 

The wing opening activities is a pure suggestion to have sex and should be ignored.

 

Who doesn’t like our entire body stroked, but in the case of birds you should always pet your goffin cockatoo from the neck up only.

 

 

Ensure that there are no places that promote brooding activities like tents in the cages, blankets on and under furniture or boxes of any sort, piles of shredded paper.

 

Generally anything that could serve as a possible dark place for a bird to go in and think about having babies.

 

Taking control of your birds light cycle is essential here.

 

We want to get a full-spectrum light on top of the cage.

 

Arrange it so the bird can’t access the lightbulb but close to the top of the cage.

 

It’s very important that the light be put on a timer providing 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.

 

The bird should be in the cage when the light comes on the morning and in the cage when the light goes off the evening signaling to the bird via it’s pineal gland that each day’s light cycle is close to what you birds instinctual expectations would be in the wild living close to the equator.

 

It’s best not to put your face close to a bird’s beak especially a new bird.

Anything can happen but in the meantime she’s regurgitating food to you because she loves you.

 

Another practice not to be encouraged.

 

Hope that helps

 

Best

 

mitchr

 

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Author:

He's handled a 1000 birds of numerous species when they would visit their monthly birdie brunch in the old Portage Park (Chicago, IL) facility. The one with the parrot playground. Mitch has written and published more than 1100 articles on captive bird care. He's met with the majority of  CEO's and business owners for most brands in the pet bird space and does so on a regular basis. He also constantly interacts with avian veterinarians and influencers globally.

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